Articles
Ball Death- by Bill Monce
Updated at April 20, 2011 16:19It’s happened to every bowler. Your “go to” ball is clean through the front of the lane…and clean through the backend as well. It just keeps going longer and hooking less with each shot thrown. It often seems that your most aggressive ball is now one of the weakest balls you own. Much to our frustration, loss of ball reaction has become a common occurrence with today’s ultra aggressive bowling balls. Bowlers have many theories on why high tech equipment stops working. Some of those range from the use of low grade urethanes to an industry wide conspiracy to sell more high performance bowling balls. The question is what causes ball death and how do you restore a ball’s ability to hook. Before we get into the restoration of a used ball it is important understand why a ball loses its ability to hook.
According to Nick Siefers, a Research Engineer for the USBC, loss of ball reaction is due to two factors- oil absorption and surface wear. Today’s performance bowling balls use highly porous urethanes that absorb oil very quickly. The rate at which these coverstocks absorb oil directly affects the cover’s ability to adhere to the lane surface. This is very similar to a kitchen sponge absorbing water. Over time both the sponge and the coverstock will become saturated. For this reason oil has no place to go and stays on the bowling ball surface and decreases the amount of friction between the ball and the lane surface.
Initially this can be seen as a positive for aggressive bowling balls. A freshly drilled high performance ball may hook too early for the preference of the bowler. After a few games the initial oil absorption will tame the ball down enough to get the ball through the front of the lane. With that said, the ball will continue to hook less without regular maintenance.
As stated earlier, surface wear is the second factor in the loss of ball reaction. Friction is created any time two textured surfaces are in contact. Bowling balls are no exception. As a ball travels down the lane friction alters the surface of the ball. Dull balls tend begin to develop a light polish while polished balls will become dull. If thrown long enough without cleaning or sanding the track portion of both the polished ball and the dull ball will become the same roughness. Some call this “tracking out” while others may call it “track burn”.
Again, this process may be seen as a positive in some instances. Have you ever thrown a freshly polished ball only to see the ball react stronger after a few shots? Burning some of the polish off of a freshly shined ball can eliminate some of the initial uncontrollability most bowlers encounter.
Now that you have taken the time to understand why balls stop hooking you are probably saying to yourself; “That’s great, but what can I do to keep from owning a $230 lawn ornament?” You have several options, but it is important to select the proper one for the brand of ball you own. Using a method of ball restoration not recommended by the manufacturer can void the ball’s warranty. With that said, the three primary methods for restoring ball reaction are ‘Hook Again’, heating, and liquid extraction.
HOOK AGAIN
Hook Again is a product developed by Ebonite International. This product utilizes several different materials ranging from clay wood particles. In the ‘Hook Again’ system the ball is suspended inside a plastic chamber with the ‘Hook Again’ material surrounding the ball. The cocktail of different materials absorbs oil and reactive material from the surface of the ball. For optimal results the ball should be left in the ‘Hook Again’ chamber for at least one day.
HEATING
Heating a ball has been used to remove oil and restore ball reaction since the mid 90’s. Applying heat to the ball draws oil to the surface. If you have ever left a ball in your trunk on a hot day you may have seen the ball “sweating” when you opened your bag. To date there are two models of ovens developed specifically for the restoration of ball reaction. The first was the ‘Rejuvenator’. The heat for the ‘Rejuvenator’ was generated by a heat lamp inside an insulated and reflective chamber. A small oscillating motor rotated the ball to distribute the heat evenly across the ball’s surface. The ‘Revivor’ works in similar fashion with two exceptions. The first is a variable temperature feature which allows the user to heat the ball at a slower rate and keep the temperature lower to reduce possible cracking. The ‘Revivor’ also utilizes a cloth pad to wipe off the extracted oil.
NOTE: It is important to note that several manufacturers do not advocate the use of the above mentioned process for ball restoration. Consult with the manufacturer of the ball or your local pro shop before using this method. Failure to do so could result in a void of the manufacturer’s warranty.
LIQUID EXTRACTION
Liquid extraction has become one of the most common methods of restoration in the last three years. In this method the ball is submersed in warm tap water for one to three hours. The heat from the tap water draws oil out of the ball. Over time the oil will rise to the top of the container. The film of oil is visible to the naked eye. This method can be used when a loss of total hook becomes noticeable. It is important to be aware that the ball will absorb water. Anyone living in a colder climate should let the ball dry overnight before you leave the ball in your car.
SURFACE MANAGEMENT
Because so much time and attention has been given to oil absorption, regular maintenance of the ball surface has become one of the most commonly overlooked aspects of ball motion. The ball surface should be restored every 40 to 60 games depending on the lane condition. Wood lane surfaces and lighter oil patterns will require more frequent attention to the ball’s surface.
The million dollar question is: “How much of a ball’s reaction is restored by these methods?” Unfortunately the jury is still out. The one certainty is that a ball will never perform as it did when it was first used. While the processes explained above have been proven to restore a ball’s ability to perform at a level close to a new ball, it will never be the same as the day you took it out of the pro shop. The best plan of action is to clean your equipment immediately after bowling and to use the recommended oil extraction method every 100 games or sooner if necessary. Focus on prolonging the life of your equipment rather than saving it. Isn’t it easier to prevent a heart attack than it is to recover from one?
Editors Note: For more information visit your SmartBowler pro shop.
Reprinted with permission from Bowling This Month, copyright. No part of this article may be reproduced in any form.